Our One-Block Diet
Posted by: By Sunset, August 31, 2009 in Team Garden

By Johanna Silver, Sunset test garden coordinator

The quinoa had to go. It flopped over, dried out, and just looked ready. (Click here for a refresher on quinoa.)

CIMG1445  

The seed packet listed the days to maturity as 100-110. It had definitely been that long, but I hesitated in harvesting because the seed packet also said not to cut the mature seed heads until after a frost. Did the crop somehow need a frost to fully mature? I called up the pros at Seeds of Change and spoke to Emily. She said that the seed packet is a bit misleading -- the crop is ready in September or so. Not all climates have a frost by then, so if it's looking ready, then it probably is.

CIMG1447

Step one - Cut off all the seed heads

CIMG1453

Step two -- Lay them inside and let them dry down completely (including stems and leaves)

CIMG1462
CIMG1458

Step three will be threshing. Emily suggests putting on gloves and rubbing the seeds heads together over a bucket.

Step four will be removing the leaf and stem debris from the seeds. Emily sets up a fan and has a container to catch the quinoa. Sounds like a disaster waiting to happen, so I think I'll probably call her to flush out the details when we get closer to that time.

And the final step will be adequately soaking the seeds to remove the saponin, a tannin that tastes bitter.

More on each step as we get there...

So far I'm totally stoked on growing quinoa. We're getting far more than I expected. Emily tells people that they'll get about a cup per plant, and I think her estimate is seeming pretty accurate. We were able to grow 54 plants in a raised bed measuring 4ft. by 8ft. (the plants require spacing of 6-8 inches). It's a great crop to grow in that it's super unthirsty (10-12 inches for the entire season), low-maintenance, and stores well for months (a year?). The threshing seems to be the labor intensive part, but I'm excited to do it, and I imagine that anyone growing their own quinoa would probably be up for the challenge.

BulletRead More
Posted by: By Sunset, August 29, 2009 in Team Bee

By Margaret Sloan, Sunset production coordinator

Last night Katie, our editor-in-chief, stopped me in the hall and said, "Have you seen the Do the Honey Bee video?" Of course I hadn't. I was probably out with the bees when it hit cyberspace.

I'm wondering if the Honey Bee will become the new Macarena?

BulletRead More
Posted by: By Sunset, August 29, 2009 in Team Bee

By Margaret Sloan, Sunset production coordinator

Yesterday we went into our Dead-Midge hive to see if by some chance the bees had managed to replace the queen cell we ripped open 3 weeks ago.  

Nope. Dead-Midge (hereafter known as Dramatica because of that hive’s penchant for drama) is not queenright. There is no queen. Just lots of drone brood randomly placed all over the frame and multiple eggs cramming the cells in the crazy way only a laying worker can accomplish.

QueenCell But we also found a mystery: two queen cells (That’s one of them in the photo at left). And the girls are cuddling up to these oversize cells like a bunch of maiden aunts hovering around their only brother’s only baby.

We don’t know what could be in those big cells.

We don’t think it’s possible that there are queens. Bees need fresh eggs or young larvae to make a queen. And bee development from egg to emergence is very reliable. 16 days for queens, 21 days for workers, and 24 days for drones, give or take a couple days.

We’ve counted backward through the month of August every way we can think to count. It’s been 28 days since we split Veronica and gave Midge frames of brood, larvae and eggs, so by the calendar, the bees shouldn’t have had any fresh eggs or larvae to work with within the last 3 weeks.

In fact, the last of the brood from Veronica should have emerged by now. The youngest worker bee should be about 7 days old. Since a worker bee in summer lives only  38 days, this hive is looking at about one more month to live.  We don’t see how there could be any baby queens in those two queen cells.

But here’s a weird thing. Sometimes—although very rarely—an egg from a laying worker will develop parthenogenetically into a female. Anyway, so says The Hive and the Honey Bee, the beekeeper’s bible.

So who knows. Perhaps we’ve got a biological oddity growing in our hives. Or perhaps we’ve got a drone that’s been fed royal jelly all his life. Or perhaps those two cells are empty and the bees are just wishful thinking.

Now we have a decision to make. Split Veronica and try again? Or let Dramatica die?

BulletRead More
Posted by: By Sunset, August 27, 2009 in Team Escargot , Team Kitchen

By Amy Machnak, Sunset recipe editor


I’m the kind of person who follows through with what I say I’m going to do. I take it very seriously and see keeping your word as a matter of integrity. However, when it comes to this escargot project, I need to scream a big fat UNCLE!

I mean, this has gone from mildly gross to straight up dis-gusting!

I read a few antique cookbooks, some French, others not. I also took the advice that some our dear readers (thanks Hank and Terri) left in the comments section. And I looked at a story about snails previously published by Sunset. Overall, I felt ready. Definitely more calculated than the last time.

I purged the snails as before, and when the time came to take the next step, I had all the ingredients on hand. I had made a gorgeous compound herb butter and had extra herbs and garlic on hand to make sure it was a full-flavored success. I even bought a fresh loaf of crusty bread. 

Boil 

Then I dropped the escargot into a pot of lightly salted boiling water.

This is where I need to inject a disclaimer: If you have an easy gag reflex or a weak stomach or any form of queasiness at all, stop reading this post, because it’s about to get nasty.

After about 30 seconds, the flesh of the snails started to turn green. I’m talking green like a bad sinus infection. The water turned green, everything turned green. And as if that isn’t gross enough, I waited another minute or so and started to spoon them out of the water only to have them dripping slime. 

Snot Do you see that? I realize the photo isn’t in focus, but look under the spoon at the large viscous snot-like drip hanging down about 3 inches.

Horrifying. And you want me to put it in my mouth? 

Then I transferred them to a plate and the green slime keep spreading.

Plate

I tried to go to the next step. Really I tried. I even got out a toothpick to pluck their green slimed bodies out of the shells. But the shells kept crushing and then hot green slimy guts, or whatever they were, just poured out onto my fingers. How am I supposed to “re-stuff” the shells if they all disintegrated?

That’s when I called it quits. Done. No mas. Nada. Not on your life under any circumstances.

Now, I need to just clarify something about myself at this point. I am not exactly a pansy when it comes to icky business or gross animal parts. My father and most members of my family are avid hunters and anglers. So as a child, being around the slaughter and processing of various animals was quite normal for me. In fact, I consider myself a damn fine butcher if I do say so myself.

Need someone to gut, skin, and breakdown a fresh deer, give me a call. Got a cooler full of day-old sea urchins that need to have their stomachs emptied and scraped? I’m your girl. No problem.

But this whole snail business? The French can have it.

BulletRead More
Posted by: By Sunset, August 26, 2009 in Team Chicken

by Elizabeth Jardina, Sunset researcher

We found out what happened to deceased chicken Alana. I got a call this morning about the results of the necropsy (which is just another word for an autopsy that doesn't happen to a person).

There is good news. She didn't have anything infectious: not Marek's, not botulism, not worms, not bumblefoot or Newcastle or the flu.

She also didn't have heavy metal poisoning or any kind of digestive trouble. (My worst-case scenario: She'd somehow eaten a twist-tie or something from a bunch of spinach, which I'd let slip by.)

What she did have was kidney failure. No explanation. It falls under the umbrella of "metabolic disorder" that the vet had mentioned. Also, there was some inflammation around her heart, which was unexplained.

So no danger to the rest of the flock. Just a one-off thing that happens when you have chickens.

In an unrelated, but also related note: Farm City author and Oakland resident Novella Carpenter is hosting an open house of her urban Ghosttown Farm on Saturday, Aug. 29. Among the planned events are a chicken slaughter workshop, which is useful both for folks who plan to raise birds for meat, but also for suburban learners like ourselves who would like to know how to put a miserably sick chicken out of its misery. It's free.

BulletRead More
Posted by: By Sunset, August 24, 2009 in Team Chicken

by Elizabeth Jardina, Sunset researcher

Sick chicken Alana did not recover.

Here's what happened: On Friday, she was crouched in the coop with a droopy tail and no energy.

On Saturday, she seemed better. Perked up, walking, eating, drinking.

By Monday, she was worse again. So I brought her inside so I could keep an eye on her. In a cardboard box in my cubicle. We gave her graham crackers and yogurt and a couple of strawberries, which she demolished within minutes. That was a good sign, the vigorous appetite.

Boxbox
Photo by Emily Chow, Sunset editorial intern

Tuesday passed with not much movement. On Wednesday, she had her best day ever when I gave her a bite-sized piece of glazed doughnut.

We started to think she was faking.

Any animal who goes after a doughnut with that much gusto has to feel at least okay. At lunch, I took her outside, and while I ate yogurt, she puttered around (actually walked a little!) eating a small bunch of oxalis and a nascent sow thistle. (Weeds were her second favorite food. Behind doughnuts.)

One of her toes seemed splayed strangely, so I started to think that perhaps she had injured her leg somehow, that her reluctance to walk was physical injury rather than overall malaise. I actually put her back in the coop overnight, hopeful that she would continue to improve.

Thursday, I thought she'd vanished. She wasn't in the yard with the other chickens, she didn't seem to be in their house, she wasn't hiding in a corner anywhere. I actually came inside to ask the other chicken-keepers if they'd pulled her earlier in the morning. No, they hadn't.

I went back out and gave the coop another look. She was way, way up in the house, on the topmost roost. She looked at me, and it was clear that she either couldn't or wouldn't come down.

The chickens put themselves to bed each night and huddle together on the roosts, but it is highly unusual for them to not hop down when the sun rises. I reached into the house and scooped Alana up and brought her inside.

But no tempting morsel of food seemed interesting to her. I offered yogurt, a delicious hamburger bun, layer pellets, fruit. Nothing. She ignored her water. And she wouldn't stand up at all. She did, a couple of times, reach for the hamburger bun, but she was so weak that she would just fall over.

We decided last year that we would give our chickens limited veterinary care. (After our other Ameraucana Ophelia had an impacted crop last year that required surgery.) Not to be cruel, but as an acknowledgment that these are farm animals. Plus, not very many vets will even see chickens, and the kinds of maladies they come down with are not always effectively treatable.

As Jody Main told us, "If a chicken goes, she goes fast."

And yet, on Thursday, Alana seemed to be going, but not fast enough, honestly. I got spooked by the idea of a chicken dying in my cubicle.

Margo, on the other hand, only wanted to know what was wrong with her. She rightly pointed out that the chicken had been notably sick for five days, and we had no plausible guesses. We thought maybe she was egg bound, but we couldn't feel an egg. We thought she'd injured her leg, but there was no apparent injury. We just flat didn't know.

Margo found an avian vet in Mountain View, and I took her there.

Alanaontowel

At Miramonte Veterinary Hospital, I filled out forms talking about what our chickens eat, where they live, how old they are, what vaccines they've received. Then we saw Dr. Kenton Taylor. Patient and thorough, he examined Alana, put her on the floor and tried to convince her to walk, checked under each wing, felt for an egg (he didn't feel one either) and then told me what could be wrong with her.

His first guess: Marek's disease. Even though she was vaccinated against it as a chick, I asked? Maybe. He said it was somewhat unclear how long the vaccine lasts.

Then, it was a panoply of untreatable and terrible possibilities: heavy metal poisoning, botulism, a metabolic disorder that caused an organ to fail.

The bottom line: "Right now, being immobile, her prognosis doesn't look good."

The best thing to do, then, would be to put her out of her suffering and send her body to the state lab, where it would undergo necropsy. That way, we'd know what went wrong with her and help us learn if we needed to do anything different with the rest of the flock.

There was little doubt in my mind that it was the right thing to do. Which is why I was so surprised that I started to cry. And couldn't stop.

I've done my best to moderate my attachment to these chickens. Indeed, I have often found myself disappointed by the limitations of their personality, and the way they peck at each other, and how I don't think they know the difference between me and any other person. I've worked to not fool myself about how there's little difference between these chickens and the chickens I eat. But after having Alana sit next to me for much of the week, trying to coax her into eating anything, hoping fervently that she would get better — then, knowing that there was nothing more to do, that she would die — it was a little overwhelming.

The nice folks at the vet's office, of course, were not at all surprised. They give people the sad news that their pets are beyond help all the time, so they gave me a few more minutes with Alana. Perched up on the table, she could barely keep her eyes open.

I regained my composure and poked my head out the door. The vet tech, whose name I never even learned, wrapped Alana up in a towel and took her to the back of the office. I did not see her again.

Alanaattheend
Alana, chicken
August 2007–August 2009


BulletRead More
Posted by: By Sunset, August 19, 2009 in Team Bee

By Margaret Sloan, Sunset production coordinator

My last post told of our attempts at hive building. We deposed the false queen and created a situation where the bees could make a new leader.

And they did. They built a sweet little queen cell for the baby queen. They built it at the bottom of the 6th frame, and attached it to the adjacent frame.

CarefullyLooking

Perfectly positioned to be ripped apart at one week of age by—yes, of course—us. Readers, we hang our heads in shame. When we opened the hive and moved the frames, we accidentally killed the baby queen.

Believe me, we are sorry. We are pounding-our-chest-and-pouring-ashes-on-our-heads sorry. (Ok, not so much. We are getting more pragmatic as we continue learning about bees. These things happen.)

Chalk it up to over-anxious beekeeping. We wanted to know if we had a new queen bee in the Dead-Midge hive. Otherwise, we were going to try to buy a mated queen; we’ve heard a beekeeper in the south bay is selling them.  So we went into the hive when we should have stayed out. (That's Kimberley and Brianne in the photo at left, peering into the hive with a flashlight.) Even though we were super careful,  it didn’t save the new queen. So much for meddling in the affairs of bees.

It’s possible that they’ve got another queen cell somewhere in there that we didn’t see (or destroy). If there is a baby queen, if she matures, emerges, and survives her mating flight, she’ll start laying eggs about the end of August.

If not, well, we’ll figure that what to do then. Anyone caught a swarm lately?

BulletRead More
Posted by: By Sunset, August 17, 2009 in Team Chicken

By Margo True, Sunset Food Editor



Alana is sick. We're not sure what's wrong with her.

Alanacrouched
Alana sitting on a hay bale, tail down and listless. 

On Friday, I noticed her sitting down in a corner of the coop, with a sort of sad inward gaze. When she did finally stand up (no chicken can resist the lure of corn on the cob, unless actually dead), her back was hunched and her tail was pointing down instead of its normal perky up.

Immediately I started paging through all the scariest parts of my various chicken-raising books and alerted art director Jim McCann and copy editor Elizabeth Jardina, fellow Team Chicken members. The problem seemed, on the face of it, to be a case of egg-binding. This is not good. It means that the new egg is stuck inside the chicken, and despite her patient heaving, just won't come out. If it's not fixed, it can be fatal. 

We followed the combined advice of the books to get Alana to relax and pop out her egg. Unfortunately we had no heat lamp, so I tried gently massaging her vent with olive oil (truly not as bad as it sounds) and Elizabeth ran a warm bath.

Alana in tub
Alana in the tub. She had enough after a few minutes and hopped out. 

Then we tried massaging her stomach in the direction of the vent to coax the egg out. (Mind you, this is all happening during the close of our October issue and we had no time to be out massaging and bathing this chicken, but we've come so far with our flock...) 

Nada. In fact we couldn't feel an egg at all.

Semi-miraculously, who should show up to take a tour of Sunset (and see the chickens) but Jody Main, our first chicken teacher. 

Jody & crew

Jody Main brought treats for our chickens (she's holding borage and kale, among 
other greens) with two friends. Elizabeth is on her right.

Jody wasn't sure what was wrong with Alana, either. She did, in the gentlest possible way, tell us how to bury a chicken (i.e. at least three feet deep). "If a chicken goes, she goes fast." We'd already decided that we would not again be spending hundreds of dollars on chicken surgery, so nature would have to take its course here. 

Alana spent the rest of the day in a box in Elizabeth's office, being fed graham crackers. 

The next day I came in, prepared to get the shovel...but there Alana was, tail up and striding around.

And now today...tail down, droopy. It's been at least five days since we saw Alana's pretty green egg. I've been reading that obesity can cause egg binding. As can a lack of calcium...but we do feed our hens oyster shells. Maybe not enough? 

Our test kitchen generates a whacking lot of scraps and we save them tenderly for the chickens...they are generously fed.

Maybe too generously? 

Well, Alana is spending the night in the box. We hope she makes it through the night. In the meantime, please send any diagnoses our way...we could use them.

  
BulletRead More
Posted by: By Sunset, August 15, 2009 in Team Bee

By Margaret Sloan, Sunset production coordinator

I’ve been too disheartened to blog. Two weeks ago we found we’d lost Queen Midge.

The queen is the heart and soul of a beehive. She lays the eggs to make baby bees, she controls the temperament and mood of the hive, and she gives the bees something to live for. Without the queen, the hive is dead. It’s a very important position.

So it makes some kind of sense that if the queen suddenly goes missing (likely smooshed by bumbling beekeepers), one of the workers will think she has a chance at promotion. She’ll fire up those latent ovaries and start laying eggs.

This never works out. A laying worker, being the required sex (female), is able to produce eggs. But since she never did the big dirty–—mating mid-flight with a drone (male)—all her eggs are infertile. Weirdly, the eggs of a laying worker can hatch, but the babies are all drones. And a hive full of drones will soon starve to death.

That’s what we had 2 weeks ago. A hive full of boy bees who had no idea how to feed themselves, a laying worker that could only produce more boy bees, and a dwindling population of working girls that were enthralled by the upstart queen.

A hive that’s accepted a laying worker is very hard to requeen, so we had to take some drastic measures. We had to destroy poor dead Midge’s hive and replace it with a split from Veronica.

This was complicated. We had to write out a script to keep track of our steps as we worked:

1. Dump all the bees from the Dead-Midge hive’s top box into her bottom box.
2. From the top box, take out all the brood nest frames (full of drone brood!). Leave 4 frames of honey in the top box.
3. Fill the center of Dead-Midge’s top box with 6 frames from Veronica, making sure for each frame that
  • Queen Veronica wasn’t present
  • There was capped brood, larvae, and fresh eggs on each frame
  • There were plenty of nurse bees on each frame
4. Check that Veronica's hive still had some frames with eggs, brood, and larvae.
5. Take the Dead-Midge hive's bottom box to the other side of the nursery and dump out all the bees and frames. Leave the frames of drone brood there to die.
6. Put Dead-Midge's top box (now full of Veronica's brood and eggs) on Dead-Midge’s hive stand, and wait for a week.

Newhive
New hive (front) with bees from Veronica (back)

The idea behind this process is that the bees taken from Veronica, suddenly without a queen, will choose a worker egg, build a bigger cell around it, and douse it with buckets of royal jelly (a blend of proteins and bee hormones that you, who may have used it as a cosmetic, probably don’t want to know about.) Royal jelly turns an ordinary worker egg into a fully functioning queen bee. With any luck, in a week we'd have a new baby queen. A little larval princess.

The bees from the Dead-Midge hive, dumped unceremoniously on the ground behind our greenhouse, were supposed to fly back to their old home site and merge with the bees we’d taken from Veronica.

And the laying worker? We hoped that she stayed where we dumped her and died (since she had never left the hive before, we were hoping she couldn't find her way back).

The day after the big reorganization, I collected the drone frames we'd set out to die. An animal, probably a raccoon or opossum, had dragged the frames around the nursery and eaten most of the drone brood. On one frame I found a huddle of bees sheltering a remaining patch of drone brood. This cluster of bereft bees broke my heart.

It's a cold harsh world in bee husbandry. But at least they don’t squawk like chickens when you kill them.


BulletRead More
Posted by: By Sunset, August 15, 2009 in Team Garden , Team Kitchen

By Margo True, Sunset Food Editor


Tomatoes
Heirloom tomatoes at the SF Chefs.Food.Wine panel at Williams-Sonoma, 8/11.


I've just picked up some great tomato-cooking tips too good to keep to myself. 

Where did I come across this trove? While moderating a panel on heirloom tomatoes last week at the fabulous SF Chefs. Food. Wine. event in San Francisco, a blockbuster that spread joy and good food throughout the city for four days. (It’ll be back next year. Plan to go.)

The panelists: chef Gary Danko (of North Beach’s multiple- award-winning Restaurant Gary Danko) and Joanne Weir (of the PBS series “Joanne Weir’s Cooking Class” and author of 18 cookbooks, including 1998’s You Say Tomato.)



Weir and Danko
They put on a great show, full of fun banter, excellent recipes, and these tips, which they threw out to the crowd like beads at Mardi Gras:

Secret ingredient: tomato skins. And you thought they were compost! No, these bits of highly pigmented, flavorful tomato have a higher purpose in your kitchen, it turns out.
    Gary’s way with tomato skins: Dry the skins in a low oven (200°) for a few hours. Steep the freshly dried skins in extra-virgin olive oil for two days to make a richly flavorful oil  for drizzling onto salads or meats.  
    Joanne’s way with tomato skins: Dry them in the oven, also at 200,° for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, and then pulverize them into “tomato dust” with a spice grinder (a clean coffee grinder works too, btw). What do you do with it? Joanne says you can add it to tomato soup or pasta sauce for extra flavor, or—I love this—make a practically instant appetizer by sprinkling it onto feta, drizzling with olive oil, adding a few olives, and serving with pita.

How to seed a tomato, fast.
  Joanne slices the tomato lengthwise (through the stem end), and then, instead of painstakingly spooning out seeds, just grips each half and squeezes firmly into a bowl. The seeds stream right out.

How to oven-dry a tomato.
Gary tosses halved roma tomatoes with plenty of extra-virgin olive oil, thyme, and salt and pepper. He arranges them, cut side down, on a heavy baking pan; pours all that herby oil over them; sets them on the highest rack in the oven; and cooks them at 400° until the skin blisters (10 to 20 minutes). Then he skins the tomatoes, pops them back in the oven (but at 200°), and cooks them for about 2 hours, until just the tomatoes and the oil are left--all the juices have evaporated. He packs them airtight, in the oil.

How to cut a tomato beautifully.
Gary removes the tomato’s core, peels the tomato, and cuts the tomato into 6 wedges; then he cuts  the inner walls and seeds from each wedge , leaving behind the "petal" (the fleshy outer wall of the tomato). He then cuts each petal into meaty diamonds, which he lightly salts and uses to add flavor and color to a number of different dishes. He also uses them to make a classic tomato “fondue,” simmering them in extra-virgin olive oil with shallots and onions until meltingly tender—a great sauce for meat or fish. 

How to freeze a tomato.
Whole, on a baking sheet (then put in sealable freezer bags); or make a concassé (peel, seed, and chop) and freeze in heavy plastic containers or in sealable freezer bags.

How to store a tomato.
Never, ever refrigerate them. The cold converts the tomato’s sugars to starch, reducing their sweetness, and also breaks down the cells, making the tomato mealy and/or spongy. Keep them at room temperature, out of the sun, stem side up.

Best tomato quote of the day.
From Joanne: “Garrison Keillor said that when you no longer care about fresh tomatoes or sweet corn, death is near.”

I can't wait to try all of these using our One-Block tomatoes—which we’re growing again this year. (They're ripening annoyingly slowly this summer because of the cool weather here in Menlo Park.) 

Hurry up, tomatoes...
BulletRead More
Posted by: By Sunset, August 14, 2009

By Kimberley Burch, Sunset imaging specialist


KBwithBees-0251 The Beekeepers Guild of San Mateo County is once again exhibiting at the San Mateo County Fair Peninsula’s Festival starting tomorrow, August 15, until Sunday, August 23, 2009.  Visit the table to talk about bees, see an observation hive and purchase goods from the hive (as available from guild members) such as honey, wax, and beauty products.


LOCATION: South Wall in the Expo Hall; San Mateo County Fairgrounds

I, personally, will be volunteering at the table tomorrow from noon to 4pm.  Please stop by to say hello.

Let’s talk BEES!

BulletRead More
Posted by: By Sunset, August 13, 2009 in Team Escargot

By Amy Machnak, Sunset food writer


I need to prep some snails for the next round of escargot. I looked for snails in our test garden a couple weeks ago and after turning up nothing, was told that it was too hot. Apparently, snails don’t like 90 degree weather and go into hiding. Wimps! 

Snail

This week has been cool, so I thought my chances were much better. But after searching in a few pots and herb patches in our new and fabulous outdoor kitchen, I still couldn’t find any. Julie Chai, associate garden editor, said that it was the wrong time of day. 

Huh? What does that mean? The snails are on a 1:15 siesta? They all knocked off work a little early to hit happy hour? 

In my recent research of snails, I’ve learned that they were brought to North America in the 19th century (most likely by the French) as a delicacy and they are now just a nuisance in the garden, more times than not ending up smooshed underfoot. And now, when I’m on the hunt for them, they’re all MIA. 

Snailpot

I finally located a few hiding in the potted plants of our outdoor kitchen and washed them up. Just as before, they will be purged before I cook them. But this time, the cooking will be executed properly. (Read: I’ll try not to mutilate them like I did in the first attempt.)

BulletRead More
Posted by: By Sunset, August 7, 2009 in Team Garden

By Johanna Silver, Sunset test garden coordinator

Sara Schneider, our wine editor, tracked me down the other day to give me a gift. She found me chatting with Elizabeth Jardina, researcher-extraordinaire, and Alan Phinney, managing editor (also extraordinaire, of course) and handed over a nice, sleek cardboard box. You can imagine how special I felt being singled out by the wine editor, of all people, and being handed a gift. Who me? Gosh, thanks.

IMG_5612  

Was it special wine from an amazing organic vineyard? It didn't feel heavy enough to be a bottle. Magical seeds she'd procured?

I opened the box and instantly choked on a cloud of particulate matter. Ok, a slight exaggeration, but I essentially opened up a box of finely decomposed cow manure and a big 'ol cow horn. Um, thank you?

IMG_5615

Sara had been given "horn manure" from  Paul Dolan, a partner at Mendocino Wine Company. The tradition of horn manure (cow poo fermented underground in a cow horn) comes from biodynamic farming.

This is what I understand about biodynamics:

  • It comes from a series of lectures given by Rudolf Steiner back in the '30s (Steiner also gave us  Waldorf education).
  • It involves paying very close attention to your land.
  • There are a lot of compost preparations, such as stuffing a cow horn with cow poo and burying it under your ground for a winter.

This is what I've never understood about biodynamics:

  • Stuffing a cow horn with cow poo and burying it under your ground for a winter

Listen, I am not meaning to poo-poo biodynamics (heehee). It is not a method of farming with which I am familiar. And yes, from the outside it seems very woo-woo. But I'm open to learning. I swear. I'm even going to make compost tea out of the horn manure and irrigate my crops with it.

But back to my story. The gift. Of horn manure.

So, Paul Dolan gave Sara his old horn manure. And then Sara gave it to me. And then I went home and thought long and hard about the decisions I've made in life to have reached this moment. The moment of being given the gift of cow poo in a box.

See what else our wine editor is up to here.

And learn more about the One Block Diet here.

BulletRead More
Posted by: By Sunset, August 6, 2009

By Kaitlin Louie, Sunset food intern


Grapes

The Thompson Seedless grapevine in the Sunset test garden.

The grape season is about to begin, but homemade wine isn’t the only thing on our minds here in One-Block-Diet land. In keeping with our use-everything-that-is-useable philosophy, it occurred to us that the leaves of a particular grape vine in Sunset’s test garden could make a tasty addition to our next one-block feast, which we’re planning to have in October.

Grape leaves are used extensively in many parts of the world as tender, mildly-flavored wrappings for everything from spiced, nutty rice to grilled feta. The yummy possibilities were more than enough motivation for us to investigate how to harvest and prepare these leaves for immediate and future use.

After doing some research, we discovered that the best time to harvest fresh grape leaves is late spring to early summer. The later the season gets, the tougher the leaves become.  Whoops. 

No matter--our plan is to harvest and preserve the hopefully-still-tender leaves first thing tomorrow. The trouble is, our research has yielded several different ways of freezing and brining grape leaves, and we’re not entirely sure what method is the best one to implement.

Furthermore, we’re a tad concerned about the potential for botulism poisoning when canning our leaves. Grape leaves are classified as a low-acid food, and thus if they are improperly canned, they can breed the bacteria that produces the dangerous botulism toxin. Sunset editorial intern Natalie Jabbar, upon hearing news of our canning plans, raises an eyebrow. "I took microbiology a few years ago, learned a lot about dangerous spores," she says, shaking her head. "Canning is often bad news bears."

We may be stubbornly curious and slightly crazy, but despite our misgivings, we’ve put together an action plan, resolving to add plenty of citric acid to our brined leaves and to boil the heck out of them after they are sealed in jars.  What follows is a hybrid of several preserving suggestions gleaned from:

Najat Sukhun, who is a longtime home cook and Natalie Jabbar's mom. (Najat suggested that we use citric acid rather than lemon juice to ensure that our grape leaf brine has consistently adequate levels of acid to ward off botulism.)

Fresh Preserving’s official guide to canning low-acid foods. Exceptionally comprehensive information, with an emphasis on safety.

Ellen’s Kitchen: Where we got a lot of our info. Very clear instructions and appealing recipes at the end.

Mama’s Taverna: Nice pictorial depictions of how to preserve grape leaves.

Kalofagas: One man and his Greek cooking.

If any of you readers are experienced in preserving fresh grape leaves, we welcome any and all advice!

Here are the procedures that we intend to follow.

Picking the Grape Leaves

Choose leaves that are approximately the size of a woman’s hand, and which are light to light-medium green.  Najat advises looking for shiny, smooth leaves and steering clear of fuzzy, thick ones. Also, make sure your leaves come from vines that have not been sprayed with pesticides.

To Use Immediately

  1. Rinse your leaves well and pat dry.
  2. Bring 1 part salt to 4 parts water to a boil.  Blanch leaves in batches of 12-15, covering them with the boiling water and blanching for 2-3 minutes.  Remove leaves and place them in ice water until fully cooled.  Dry with a towel. 

To Freeze

  1. Follow the above steps, then stack similar-sized leaves 6-20 at a time, lay them flat so they don't crack, and place them in freezer bags. Freeze for up to 6 months.
  2. To use, thaw in a colander and use immediately.

To Brine

  1. Sterilize several canning jars by putting them in a pot of water and boiling for 10 minutes. Lower the heat to a simmer and keep jars in the hot water until needed.
  2. Place lids (without bands) in another saucepan and place over medium-low heat until bubbles form (do not boil). Remove from heat and keep lids in the hot water until needed.
  3. Fill your canner/boiling pot halfway with hot water and bring to a boil over medium heat.
  4. Remove jars from the pot of hot water using a jar lifter.
  5. Tie blanched leaves into bundles.  Gently push bundles into jars with a wooden spoon, leaving a good 1½ to 2 inches between the bundle top and the jar’s rim. 
  6. Prepare the brine by boiling ¼ cup kosher salt with every 4 cups of water you use.  Add 2 ½ to 3 tsp citric acid powder for every 4 cups of the brine. Boil brine (with citric acid) for a minimum of five minutes, then pour the hot brine into your leaf-filled jars.  Make sure that the brine covers the leaf bundle by at least 1 inch.
  7. Remove air bubbles by running a clean knife inside the rim of each jar. 
  8. Remove jar lids from their hot water using tongs. Place lids on top of jars so that sealing compound on lids meets the jar rims. Seal the jars by placing bands on jars and tightening them firmly (do not force). Place sealed jars in canner/boiling pot and fill with enough water to cover jars by about an inch. Boil, covered, on high heat for 15 minutes. Let jars cool and store in a dark, cool place for up to a year.

 

For more tips on Sunset’s way to can, click here.

We’ll keep you posted on how this all turns out!


BulletRead More
Posted by: By Sunset, August 5, 2009 in Team Chicken

by Elizabeth Jardina, Sunset researcher

You may remember that we once had a rooster. Nugget. We got him when he was a chick-let, a rescue chicken. We opened our coop and (as much as you really can expect) our hearts to our little fluff of maroon. I held Nugget's little warm body in my hands and introduced him to visitors at Sunset's Celebration Weekend two years ago.

Roosteraschick

Then, the awkwardness of adolescence revealed it unlikely "she'd" ever lay an egg because she was totally a dude. Also, beating up on our other chickens. Even more unacceptable, giving me a hard time, pecking me every time I went into the coop.

And then he started crowing.

This put us on the wrong side of the law, as well as our plan of a happy coop of hens.

We shied away from the idea of killing him, even though Sunset magazine is a premier source for recipes for roast chicken, almond-crusted chicken, chicken stewed with green chiles or green olives, or turned into a summer corn chowder with avocado.

It's funny: I'm naturally squeamish, so I dreaded the idea of the blood and terror of killing him, but I became the strongest advocate for it. If you are going to eat meat, why not meat you raise yourself? If you've got the nerve to eat flesh, why not take a principled stance?

In a last-ditch effort, I even shopped around the idea of feeding him to the alligator gar at the California Academy of Sciences, figuring it would be a relatively honorable end for him. The alligator gar, actually a large, toothy fish, has to eat; he eats chickens. It's fulfilling the natural order of things. (A colleague's father-in-law is an ichthyologist there, which is why she suggested it. I didn't make that up myself.) Anyway, people thought I was a psycho who wanted the rooster to engage in some kind of gladiatorial nonsense. Which I DENY.

Eventually, he ended up going to live in the country, keeping his head, but leaving me feeling conflicted about my love of chicken korma.

Which is why I was so interested in how our colleague Samantha Schoech dealt with her backyard flock. Turns out, her Tilly was a rooster too. And this weekend, her husband and a couple of trusty friends killed him. In their backyard. Tonight, she's planning to make pozole.

Tilly

Sam's blog has a video of the dispatching itself, which I steeled myself to watch. Only it wasn't that bad. If you're interested in animal husbandry, I recommend watching it to see if you can deal with the gory bits.

Want more about chicken "processing"? You must also check out our colleague-in-honest-food, Hank Shaw's blog Hunter Angler Gardener Cook. (He is a rooster assassin for his Italian neighbors.)

BulletRead More
Search This Blog
Advertisement